Posts Tagged ‘london’

The Cakes 2 – round 2 – introducing the new experts

Friday, February 25th, 2011

From London to Suffolk to stay a day with Fran and her husband Søren, catch up and, most importantly, get their opinions on the four remaining cupcakes! Trust me, these guys know their cake.

Chewie’s – Chocolate with coconut topping

Me: I was a little daunted by the thick layer of frosting but it actually tasted lovely, felt silky smooth (more ganache-like than frosting-like) and helped to compensate for the bland sponge which tasted brown rather than chocolaty. I think the coconut was mostly for decoration rather than flavour.

Fran: Less chocolaty than expected. The icing was very pleasant and incredibly smooth, overshadowing the cake.

Søren: Found this cake slightly disappointing as he expected really chocolate truffly-ness but would still eat this cupcake again.

Sweet Couture – Peanut Butter

Me: The sponge had a great peanut butter flavour but the icing was too sugary to take the flavour on. I would be happy with an uniced version of this cake and a big glass of soya milk!

Fran: Liked the real peanutty taste. Thought the icing was slightly too sweet but there was a good all round flavour and the sponge had a good texture.

Søren: This cake could have done with half as much icing – it was way too sweet! The icing completely overpowered the sponge. Would have liked it better with just a thin layer of icing. He didn’t think he liked peanut butter but quite enjoyed this cake.

Outsider Tart – Chocolate


Me: The sponge had a nice firm, moist texture but no chocolaty flavour at all. The whole thing put me in mind of those ‘chocolate-flavoured’ syrups you get for ice cream and dunkin’ donuts. Which is not my idea of chocolate!

Fran: Not chocolaty at all although it has sort of a nostalgic charm, conjuring memories of sugary childhood treats and the chocolate icing they use on cinnamon swirls in Denmark.

Søren: Thought this cake smelled like the chocolate cakes of his childhood but didn’t taste of much. The most distinctive taste was from the sweets used to decorate it.

Maison Blanc – Pistachio


Me: This cake was beautifully executed – the sponge had a lovely light texture and the frosting was airy and not oversweet – but the whole cake tasted a lot like marzipan which I do not like at all. Sorry!

Fran: Icing was slightly over-sweet but the balance of icing to cake was good as the light, crumbly sponge needed a good frosting to complement it. However, it tasted like marzipan rather than pistachio.

Søren: Doesn’t really like marzipan but loves this cake. Liked the way the icing sort of melted with the light cake. This is the only one of the bunch he could have eaten all of.

Today’s Favourites

Søren: Maison Blanc Pistachio

Fran: Peanut Butter. But thinks the pistachio cupcake was actually the best, just not to her personal tastes.

Me: I totally agree with Fran. In terms of the best cake, Maison Blanc’s pistachio was flawless but the taste is not my cup of tea at all. Personally I like the peanut butter cupcake from Sweet Couture the best today.

So what was the best cake overall? It’s actually very hard to say. In terms of what I enjoyed eating, I think it was the raspberry ripple (Cox again!) but the peanut butter cupcake would have maybe taken the top spot if it had been unfrosted (or frosted in a less sickly fashion). However, if I had to award the title of “best cupcake” to one of these eight, it would have to be the pistachio from Maison Blanc. And, even though I think price isn’t really a factor for luxury goods like cupcakes, the Maison Blanc cake was also the cheapest.

The Cakes 2 – round 1 – return of the experts

Wednesday, February 23rd, 2011

Now for the important part, how did they taste! I’m sorry to say that after a full day of travelling the length and breadth of central London these cakes didn’t have much of a chance of looking perfect when the tasters got their hands on them which is a great shame, but couldn’t really be helped. My original cake eating experts join me again for round 1.

Buttercup Cake Shop – Chocolate Marshmallow

I’m afraid there is no picture of this cake. Unfortunately it was the first cake I picked up and the only one that didn’t come neatly boxed, thus it was rather pathetic and squashed looking by the end of the day. I don’t hold this against the bakery. I’m sure a paper bag is perfectly adequate for normal people who buy one cake and then eat it at the earliest opportunity rather than spend a day collecting cupcakes before dissecting and analysing them! I would like to add, in place of a picture, that this cupcake looked supercute in the shop with smooth chocolaty icing and a piped white heart.

Me: To me, the sponge tasted exactly like the mass produced chocolate muffins you can pick up in any supermarket or corner shop. This was disappointing as it looked so perfect and the topping was not too sweet, although not too chocolaty either. Also, I was surprised to find chocolate sponge as for some reason it looked like a vanilla/plain cupcake through the wrapper. Not a bad cake, but definitely not great.

Mark: First reaction – “There is a layer of different coloured stuff around the outside!”. Thought the sponge seemed quite moist and nice and the topping was chocolaty. He didn’t detect any marshmallow flavours or textures but this could be due to the rough handling it received. “If it was a chocolate sponge cake, then it was. If it was not, then it wasn’t.”

Rich: Thought this cake felt a bit mass produced. There was a sense of chocolate but overall it was pretty average.

Lola’s Cupcakes – Black Forest Cupcake (cupcake of the month)


Me: Firstly, I’d like to say that I was impressed with the robustness of the packaging. The cake itself had a nice well rounded flavour and the filling was lovely and rich although the icing was a touch too sweet. I thought the presentation was beautifully simple and loved the fresh cherry on top.

Mark: Very good. There was nothing wrong with this cupcake at all. It tastes exactly like black forest gateaux. If he had to be extremely critical he’d say the icing was ever so slightly too sweet.

Rich: It’s only flaw is that the sponge is a little dry. Really tasty. Sweet but not too sweet.

Hummingbird – Vanilla with chocolate frosting


Sadly this cake was badly formed, slightly greasy looking and didn’t completely fill the wrapper. I’ve had the same thing happen when trying out new recipes that contain a lot of butter but didn’t expect to see this from hummingbird. I’ve had a couple of cupcakes from here before that were flawless and so have my friends so perhaps I was just unlucky. By 22.00hrs returning to exchange it was out of the question so we went ahead with the tasting anyway.

Me: I was disappointed with the flavours in this cake. The texture of the sponge was slightly chewy and the flavours were too harsh.

Mark: The sponge tasted fine where it worked and the icing was good and chocolaty tasting.

Rich: Good. Not as good as Lola’s but really flavourful. However it tasted slightly too buttery or creamy, almost bordering on sickly.

Cox – Raspberry Ripple
Somehow, and the mind boggles as to how, this cupcake managed to flip all the way over inside its box.


Me: This cake had a real raspberry flavour – more jammy than fresh but tasty none the less. The frosting was creamy and smooth and not over sweet. The whole cake was very moist and the only one so far I could have managed more than a quarter of.

Mark: It tasted like a raspberry ripple or rather it seemed no less fake than a raspberry ripple. Did not taste chemically or disappointing.

Today’s Favourites

Me: Definitely the Raspberry Ripple. I don’t know what it is about Cox cakes but they push all the right buttons for me.

Mark: Black Forest (with raspberry ripple in second place) because it tasted like what it said it would taste like.

Rich: Black Forest, definitely.

The rest of the cakes will be reviewed in the next post.

Cake Tour of London 2 – return of the cupcake

Tuesday, February 22nd, 2011

Due to the tube strike in my first tour I left a lot of stones unturned in my hunt for a decent cupcake. So once again as Mark headed to Londinium for some serious work (so he says…but it looks a lot like playing with toys to me! – PS, Mark is not actually in this video but I have it on good authority that he was there) I tagged along, armed with my notebook, annotated maps and good comfy shoes. A lot of the places I planned to visit this time didn’t make the first list due to the fact that they often weren’t within walking distance of anything else and required semi-long tube journeys to get to. This in mind, I set off early with one rule – only one cupcake per bakery.

First on the list was the Buttercup Cake Shop. This is a really sweet little shop not far from the High Street Kensington tube station with a good selection of cupcake flavours including some unusual ones. I had to choose the limited edition chocolate marshmallow cupcake not just because of the cute heart piped on the smooth frosting but because I’m a sucker for anything I only get one chance to try. Close second, though was the passionfruit cupcake with its whipped cloud of pale orange frosting. Only at the first bakery and already my “one cupcake” rule is sorely tested!


As I wanted to start early, I did a bad thing and skipped breakfast. Or at least, it’s normally a bad thing to skip breakfast. In this case it gave me to opportunity to duck into a branch of ottolenghi and pick up a berry crumble muffin.

The berries in question were HUGE and delicious!

Suitably refreshed it was back to the underground and off to my next destination – Outsider Tart. However, on my way there I unexpectedly passed by a branch of Maison Blanc and even though it wasn’t on my list, not being a cupcake specialist, the pistachio cupcakes in the window looked good enough to try. Unfortunately the picture I snapped of them on display is just an indistinct blur so on to the outside of Outsider Tart.

This little shop is packed full of mad cookies, brownies and one that was a cookie with a brownie baked into it…or vice versa, it was hard to tell… as well as a few imported american products such as breakfast cereals and fluff in a jar. Unfortunately, I got there so early there were only two chocolate cupcakes sitting alone on a large stand. “I know,” commiserated the shop assistant, “they look so lonely waiting for their friends to come out of the oven!”. Still, at least this made my choice of flavours easy!

The next stop on my tour should have included three bakeries before getting back into the stuffy (but marvelously useful!) tube, however I was somewhat disappointed to find that the Euphorium Bakery (or at least that branch) does not do cupcakes at all and that, after a fourty-five minute search which ended in a small row of tiny industrial units which smelled tantalisingly of baking chocolate chip cookies but had no attached shopfronts, signs or doorbells, I had either been misled by the website into thinking that Sweet Things had an actual shop in the area or I had managed to get myself completely lost . Either way, the trip on the northern line was not a total loss thanks to Chewie’s Bakery where I found a small but nicely presented range of cupcakes to choose from. I selected a chocolate cupcake topped with chocolate frosting and coconut and headed back to the underground a little more footsore and a little less laden than I had intended.

Back in familiar territory I headed for topshop at Oxford Circus. Anyone who knows me well may be shocked by this announcement unless they also knew that Lola’s Cucpakes has a kiosk there on the ground floor. Last time I was in London I thought I had picked up one of Lola’s cupcakes from Harrods but it turned out to be a Lily Vanilli creation. This time I was dedicated to getting the real thing. Strangely located right in the middle of the bustling high street fashion store is a cute little kiosk selling cute little cupcakes. The cupcake of the month was black forest and looked ever so special with a fresh cherry perched on top.

From Oxford Circus I took the familiar walk into soho and stopped to collect cupcakes at two old favourites. I know that cupcakes from both these bakeries were reviewed last time but they both have such extensive ranges that it couldn’t hurt to try them again, right? First, to the Hummingbird Bakery to pick up a vanilla cupcake with chocolate frosting.

Then to Cox, Cookies and Cake for a raspberry ripple.

By this point I was hungry and a little weary but it was lunchtime in soho and pouring with rain. The queue for Leon Caranaby Street was out the door and it was too wet to peruse the menus in chinatown so it was a mad dash to the Candy Cafe for a taro bubble tea and a comfy seat. Thus fortified, and the downpour passed, I carried on despite my cravings for savoury food. I had a few errands in chinatown – soot sprites, tofu and pocky – and then it was on to Sweet Couture, a beautiful boutique shop between chinatown and Covent Garden and just round the corner from CyberCandy, to pick up a peanut butter cupcake.


All my primary objectives complete I was now free to source a very late lunch from Leon on the strand. Mmmm, Slow-cooked shredded pork wrap and lemon, ginger and mint quencher.

Despite my concerns about all the travel to and from remote bakeries, I actually concluded my cupcake tour with time to spare before my scheduled meeting with Mark and Richard so spent some time shopping leisurely before being drawn into the tiny “Jen Cafe” on the Leicester Square edge of chinatown by the woman making dumplings by hand in the window and the promise of a warm cup of green tea. I was rewarded for my curiosity by a plate of the best fried dumplings I have ever had!

Watch this space for the first in a two part review of the cakes!






The Cakes – Round 3

Sunday, November 7th, 2010

The last of the London cupcakes! After a long break which involved a lot of fresh air and almost as much dim sum, we set to again. Ah, the things I do for my art!

Cox Kiss Cake

The cox cakes were the most expensive at £4 each and somehow they both ended up in the last round. They looked amazing and I can never turn down a blueberry, but could they live up to their price tags?

Me: This cake was perfect. Really. The filling had a lovely blueberry flavour, the sponge was moist but not sticky and the frosting was smooth and not too sweet.

Mark: Thought this one was the best one yet. The flavours were not over-sweet or artificial.

Richard: A proper bit of fruit. It was really good and the sponge was really moist. If anything let it down it was that the topping had no actual flavour.

Pudding Cook Toffee Apple Cake

Due to the aforementioned lack of labelling, I could only guess that this was the toffee apple cupcake until, that is, we cut into it to reveal a layer of apple sauce!

Me: This was very tasty with a lovely apple filling but after the initial taste you were hit with a harsh sweetness and an uncomfortable aftertaste.

Mark: Thought THIS was the best one yet. Real fruit, real flavour, good texture and not too damp. It did have a slightly odd aftertaste and after experiencing this for a minute or two, he revoked his “best one yet” comment.

Richard: rough sugaryness, but good flavour. Did not take much as is allergic to apples.

Cox Red Skull Cake

The last but possibly the most striking of the cakes with its glittery-eyed skull topper.

Me: I was nervous of the great big pile of icing on this cupcake but when I finally worked up to the courage to eat it, it was actually very good. The icing was not rough or sugary and it had a really interesting flavour. I loved the fruity goo and the addition of chocolate chips.

Mark: THIS was the best one yet. It was all good. The flavours were good, the sponge was good, it looked off putting but actually tasted good. All the components had a purpose and combined to make a tasty cake.

Richard: Thought the chocolate chips were a pleasant surprise but he did not approve of the big hard thing on top.

So, all the cupcakes have been tasted, but which one was the very best?

Me: I loved the Cox Kiss Cake. Its smooth texture and blueberry flavour won my heart. But close second was the Cox Red Skull cake for its unique flavours and cheeky chocolate chips. I didn’t expect both my favourites to be from the same bakery, but cakes surprise you sometimes!

Mark: Definitely the Cox Red Skull cake. No competition.

Richard: The strawberry (EDIT: red velvet!) Lili Vanilli cake. But second place was the Cox Red Skull cake.

Another result I didn’t expect. We could all agree on the winning cupcake! The Cox Red Skull cake despite the handicap of knowing it cost so much more than the others and its off putting exterior took the gold hands down thanks to it superior textures, flavours and inventive combinations of the two.

Cake Tour of London: Part Two

Thursday, November 4th, 2010

My adventures in London – Soho


The transition line between broad, branded oxford street and windy, quirky, sometimes lewd soho seems to be Carnaby Street. I’d planned a rest stop at Carnaby Street for two reasons. One, I was pretty sure I’d need one by then, and two, it is the location of a branch of Leon. Since Richard gave me the cookbook as a birthday present a couple years ago, I have been in love with this little franchise. Its mantra is fast food that tastes good and does you good. I use their recipies all the time and will love them forever for introducing me to fructose and so I cannot visit London without stopping for a Leon. However, I forgot to factor a couple of things into my carefully laid plans. Namely that it was lunchtime and that the Carnaby Street Leon is the smallest Leon I have seen yet. But, I would rather be footsore sipping a blackcurrant quencher from leon than sitting comfortably in a starbucks, so that is exactly what I did.

Leon

Onwards and unrested then to the Hummingbird bakery. Probably the most famous cupcakery in the UK, I have visited Hummingbird before in its Kensington location and while I was pleased by the quality of the cakes, I was a little disappointed by the lack of variety. Their Wardour Street branch rectified that.

hummingbird

I was in fact, hard pressed to choose just two for my experiments (the limit I set myself on cakes from any one bakery). Eventually I went for grape soda – the flavour of the day – and black bottom. Black bottom cupcakes are something I’ve read about a lot but never seen in person, so I was intrigued to give it a go.

hummingbirdcake

The next stop on my list was the one I was most excited about. Cox Cookies and Cake is housed in a former sex shop among current sex shops in crowded Soho. The cakes are designed by shoe designer Patrick Cox and created by master patissier Eric Lanlard. They promised to be quirky and well crafted, and I believed them.

coxoutside

The interior of the shop is all black and neon, just like its facade and only a small number of cakes are on the counter at a time. The staff were friendly and really into their products. A customer who arrived as I was trying to choose just two of the shiny cakes was looking for something to surprise her work colleague and was immediately drawn to the cakes decorated with chocolate nudes and poppy Marilyn Monroes. I, on the other hand, was tempted by the delicious flavours. I settled on a “kiss cake” – vanilla with a blueberry compote centre – and a “red skull cake” – chocolate with a strawberry compote centre and red frosting. Both of these were speciality cakes and so were expensive. We’ll see later if they were worth it.

coxinside
coxcakes

Now I was truly in need of refreshment and, lingering longingly on my way past Yauatcha (a tea house and dim sum restaurant), I spotted the very thing I needed. A snog.

snog

Even in Soho, a snog is not as sordid as it sounds. It’s a fat free, low GI frozen yogurt sweetened only with agave nectar. I had green tea flavour with blueberries and it was exactly what I needed. Cold, refreshing and a place to sit!

Fortified and rejuvenated, I carried on into chinatown. I’m afraid my motivation from here on was somewhat less cake related. I love wandering the supermarkets and shops in and around china town and although I couldn’t buy all that much as I have to carry all my luggage on the train home, I still had fun seeing the sights. In fact, I spent so long seeing the sights that I felt it justified another break. I love Chinese bubble tea (pearl milk tea) and was recommended a sweet shop in chinatown where I could get Taro flavour. My local shop in Edinburgh doesn’t do this exotic purply flavour so I was eager to try it. Finding the shop took a little more work than I’d like to admit being that it was almost exactly at the spot by which I had entered chinatown to begin with, but the Candy Cafe is worth it. Up a narrow flight of stairs it is a little place with a big menu. At least, the drinks menu is big. The sweets and snacks they offer looked brilliant too, but bubble tea is almost a meal in itself due to the yummy tapioca pearls (sago) that give it its name, so I didn’t allow myself to be tempted.

bubbletea

I love milky bubble tea in general, but the taro flavour gives a new, unusual dimension. Its sort of sweet and cereally and…well…purply tasting. I really enjoyed it and am sad I can’t get it at home. As well as the tea, I did manage to purchase one or two sweets in chinatown and in the cybersweet shop on the way to covent garden (where my wanderings took me next) which may also make it onto the blog at a later date. I was enticed into this shop by the wall of pocky!

pockyshop

So, cake tour over I headed off to London Bridge to meet friends for dinner and was so delighted by what I found there I will include it here, even though I don’t have a picture to do it justice. Down a little alley, right next to the tube station, is the George Inn. It is a proper, old, galleried coaching inn. The bar area is split into several small rooms flanking a courtyard and passage between them means going outside and back in again. They have their own George Inn ale on tap and serve the best fish and chips I have had in a long long time. Upstairs, a little restaurant area is accessed via a balcony – although you can eat in the bar as well – where we were seated and served by a cheerful cockney landlady. It looked like they had bedrooms too, which would make an amazing stop over location.
All in all, a very successful, very busy day! Next time we’ll get to the important stuff – how the cakes taste!

Cake Tour of London: Part One

Wednesday, November 3rd, 2010

I’m staying with a friend, Richard, in London for a few days this week and took the opportunity to plan a two day (Tuesday and Wednesday) cake tour to occupy my days while my husband and Richard nerded out about incomprehensible computer things. Unfortunately, but rather predictably, a tube strike was announced for the Wednesday. So, I rearranged my neatly scheduled days, and referenced my printed, annotated maps (I may have gotten a little bit too excited about this trip) and decided to cram as much into one day as I possibly could. This meant that some of the outlying bakeries had to be put aside for the next visit, but I figured I could probably get a remarkable amount done centred around only two tube stops. Here follows the chronicles of my adventures in London.

My adventures in London – The department stores

The was no point starting too early, as no respectable bakery or apparently London department store opens before 10.00. So I had a leisurely cup of tea and took the tube to Knightsbridge, arriving outside Harrods with just enough time to get my bearings before the doors opened. Arguably London’s most famous department store lives up to its reputation for grandeur and but is also well signposted and staffed with hundreds of friendly helpful people. Obviously I bypassed all other distractions and headed straight for the foodhalls. I had been in Harrods once before with my parents when I was younger and apart from the famous Egyptian staircase, my only lasting memories are of the foodhalls and the heart-stopping price tag on a t-shirt. After wandering for a while, staring happily at sushi, dim sum, dried meats and colourful tumbles of sweets, I finally remembered why I was there and headed for the cupcakes.

Harrods

I had heard a lot about Lola’s cupcakes and that Harrods stocked them, and was interested to try one. I selected a strawberry cupcake, and a gingerbread based cupcake whose full name I can’t now recall to take away and try. However, upon later inspection of my receipt both of these cupcakes turned out to be Lily Vanilli cupcakes, not Lola’s at all. Sorry Lola’s cupcakes, you are on my list for the next visit. Later blog posts will review these cucpakes in all their spongy glory. I was impressed with the wide selection of flavours, including seasonal recipes and mini cupcakes that were on offer and the price was very normal for bespoke cakes, despite the location.

Lili Vanilli

I then walked down the street, forgoing the wallet-emptying but oh-so-tasty-looking dim sum, to Harvey Nichols and again, proceeded straight to the foodhall. I have to say, this was disappointing in the extreme. After a short walk through a clutter of largely uninteresting products, I found the cupcakes I had been looking for. I’d read online about Pudding Cook and all their unusual flavours, and I’ll wait until I’ve tried them to comment on the cakes themselves, but Harvey Nichols is not doing them justice. A few, preboxed, unlabeled cupcakes were scattered on a table top next to the check-out counter under a list of flavours. I guessed that the box I picked contained a chocolate brownie cupcake and a toffee apple cupcake, but there was no way to be certain. Also, for “security reasons” you are not allowed to take photos inside Harvey Nichols, so this picture of the cupcakes alone will have to suffice.


Round the corner from Knightsbridge station is the Motcombe Street branch of Ottolenghi. When I bought the first Ottolenghi cookbook I hadn’t heard of the restaurants but I was drawn to a book packed with vibrant veg at the start and beautiful baking at the end, with a sliver of savoury meats in the middle. Its recipes made it into regular circulation remarkably quickly and are easily adaptably for seasonal veg. Naturally, all the branches of Ottolenghi made it onto my London map and I took the earliest possible opportunity to visit one.


I was hard pressed to choose my meal as absolutely everything looked really tasty, but I didn’t really have a huge appetite so settled on the cheese and chard tart with carrots and peas. It was so tasty. All the over-boilers of sprouts and microwavers of frozen carrots and peas should take note. Eating vegetables doesn’t have to be a chore!

Refreshed by my lunch (tea counts as breakfast, right?) I hopped back on the tube to Oxford Circus. From there, I walked along Oxford Street – which was heaving, even on a Tuesday morning – to Selfridges. The foodhall in Selfridges is actually a whole mess of little kiosks and nooks and counters which was fun to explore, but complicated if you wanted to make sure you saw all of it. I saw a lot of cake producers I recognised from their London stores and was delighted to find Primrose cupcakes in a little corner of the display as I had thought that the Primrose Bakery would have to wait until next time. I picked the vanilla cupcake with chocolate frosting to try.

They also stocked Sweet Couture cupcakes in one of their cafes, but were unable to box them up for me to take away, so the picture will have to suffice.

So, to sum up the department stores. Harrods – magical. Selfridges – varied and interesting. Harvey Nichols – don’t bother.
Stay tuned for more adventures in London.